I got dressed for battle with my problem hive #2 11PM last night 10/14/2015. I pulled the honey Super off the top and
placed it on a screened bottom board that they could not get out. I
took the super down from below that had the brood chamber and shook all
10 frames of bees off into soapy water. I noticed 1 thing! It sure is a lot
easier at night doing work with the bees. I took the empty box and
shook it over the soapy water. Took all the frames and shook them 1
more time before placing them back in the bee hive box. Placed the
honey super on the brood chamber and strapped it down.
My theory going with tid bits taken from Michael Palmer a renowned bee keeper in the East USA is to
reduce the numbers and remove the queen will calm the hive down. I
suspect that in the brood chamber somewhere some eggs will exist to turn
into queens. Temperature has been 95 and 98 the past week, I believe
that that a queen cell will take life and winter infertile. I have no
idea if this works what I have done. Just a theory in play. Since most
of the brood chamber bees are gone, they'll need to focus on
re-queening. It's cooling down or at least that's the theory. We had
104 temps on Sunday where I live. Who knew we'd have summer still try
to stay? So, the problem bees hopefully they'll not be focused on
aggression or no longer alive. I of coarse speculate the queen is not
with this bee hive. Cooler temps mean the bees stay inside or less active.
If this bee hive makes it, then great I can re-queen next April.
If they do not make it, I have a mess to deal with. If they don't
calm down, then another shake in soapy water is what they get and the
hive is no longer. Sure this queen-less hive can act a fool, I am well
aware of this. I've been dealing with this far too long and it's nothing
new. We will see if this calms them down and refocuses the bee hive.
Of coarse I could pull a frame of eggs from bee hive 1 the
normal hive, but I rather just let the bees deal with it or if they
can't then that's okay too.
I'm not sorry for what transpired. As Michael Palmer says "MEAN BEES
SUCK" I shouldn't be chased by guard bees when I am50 yds away from the bee yard. I am not
dealing with a mean hive PERIOD!
I sure do envy y'all that have nice calm bees in all the YouTube
Video's. I believe I am going to get 4 queens in April from wildflower
meadows. I have been reading up on them. I like this selective
breeding they do with the queens. I've been told that Bee Weaver(BEE SUPPLIER IN TEXAS) has
been getting more aggressive over the years by a local bee keeper. I do
know what I am getting with wildflower if that is what I end up with. I
will keep y'all informed on my observation.
This AM the bee hive entrance activity of foraging bees is by far fairly low in comparison to previously and the bee hive #1 next to it. I hope I can walk out to the shop this AM and not get attacked as that happened yesterday afternoon about 4PM. Its ridiculous to have bees come and attack you 50yds away and you have not done anything other then open the shop door.
Zak
Thursday, October 15, 2015
Monday, October 12, 2015
Africanized Aggressive Bees=Bee Hive Veroa Mite Control with Apivar
Last few weeks has been very frustrating and depressing. Depressing because my whole entire year dedicated to 2 bee hives might end up being 1 bee hive. I have a severe aggressive bee hive that probably has a high percentage of DNA from Africanized queen. The bees in hive 2 are so aggressive it's downright dangerous. As long as I don't do anything to them they're fine, but try and do something to the bee hive and your going to get the worst reaction from this bee hive. It reminds me of when I got the bees. Agitated Yes. For reasons justified yes it could be cause it had been cloudy, removed the sun sail cloth, hive beetle penetration and beetle trap installation.
I have been trying to get someone that can do a DNA test for my bees. Testing for percentage of Africanized bees. NC University does it apparently I think for $50. This after searching on line, emailing and phone calls for about a week. I have not contacted them. Why? Cause I am on the fence about destroying this bee colony. It's a dangerous situation to the community. I weigh my safety and the safety of the surrounding community daily. They seem to be calm currently and surprisingly the day after installing Apivar strips to both bee hives, the bees were back to normal.
What took place leading up to this? I called my favorite state bee inspector. She and I met and it was in a manner that she would not forget. When I called I went through the scenario of why she would remember me perhaps, she infact did. I being a rather self educated beginner took a Spring Bee class that was put on by the Central Texas Bee Association. The lady our bee inspector was giving a quick class on the health and welfare of bees. Different things that they can get like Tracheal Mites, American Foul Brood etc.... She skimmed over veroa mites and that being the #1 concern these years with bee keepers, I had noted that when she asked for questions on Veroa nobody raised any questions. I took it to open a can of worms by asking about sugar shake and count levels. I had seen video's on it by some other state bee inspector. Anyhow, she wanted to move on as time was clicking by, she was trying her best, but it seemed my couple questions turned into a 10 minute question and answer and I was laughing watching her struggle. She is young 25 or so and watching her reaction it was funny at the time.
So onward....... We had a 30 min conversation and she had recommended to do a mite count. Something I had not done. Since my bee hive #2 is aggressive, no way am I going to open it up to see if I need to treat by catching a cup of bees, putting them in a jar and shaking them in powdered sugar and doing a mite count. I was recommended that if I need to treat to use Apivar it's a 99% kill rate on the hive for Veroa Mites. 42 days you pull the strips out.
I order Apivar from Mann Lake $45 with shipping I think is what it was . 10 strips and what you do is place 2 stips in the brood chamber. Making sure it's placed where the bees will be. They crawl on it and get the chemical on them. Verroa mites drop dead. I have to empty out the West Beetle trap anyhow. So instead of doing that on Monday I waited for the Apivar to arrive in the mail.
Knowing my bee hive #2 is aggressive I get on my Denim long sleeve shirt, bib Overalls (Dickies Brand) and bee suit. Go light my smoker and smoke the bees, undo the straps, Come back over and get all my tools and stuff. Bring it over to the bee hive. Pop the top on Bee Hive 1 the non aggressive bees. Remove the honey super and place the Apivar strips into the Brood chamber. Put the Honey Box medium on and I am done. Strap it down.
Bee Hive #2 I lift the top and get a face full of bees. I take the honey box off (SUPER) and get a face full of angry bees. I at this time can not hear anything other then a loud buzz. Take the brood box off and expose the west beetle trap. Take that off the bottom board and clean it out. Put it back on. Put the Bee Hive back together. I am rushing and after everything was put back I realized that the beetle trap was crooked. Left side was down and right side was up. Not going to mess with it. It is what it is. I walked about a block away and the bees were still after me. Walked back down the street 1/2 block past my house and about 5 bees hanging out. Made a run for the door and got in the house without bees. Took off my bee suit and tossed it outside on the porch. Looked at the gloves and it's got quite a lot of stingers in it.
So, I have called the fire dept to find out what to do if I need to burn the bee hive. Were in a burn ban. They stated that if I have to then do it, but let them know by calling them. I called a guy the next day asking what to do about it and if he had any solutions. Can't requeen this late in the year. No drones available and I have not seen a drone in any of my 2 bee hives. Good thing is that in my researching DNA Testing of Africanized Bees I did find a company out in California that has artificial inseminated queens that prove to be veroa mite resistant strain through DNA breeding. I will be requeening next year with them. Expensive Yes! Worth it? It's about $75 with shipping on 2 queens.
A local bee keeper told me that they could just be aggressive. I wouldn't mind him coming out and taking a look, but unfortunately he's pretty far away.
Anyhow......... My wife suites up and goes in my shop steaming mad about the bees. A gallon of dish soap in 1 hand and screams furiously that she's done! She's had it! Well being mad doesn't help the situation and you can't exactly just go out and do something half caulked cause you'll just end up with a different mess. Anyhow....... The bees days are numbered. Either we get some cooler weather and they calm the FUCK DOWN! or they're going to burn. I refuse to deal with "HOT" bees.
I have been trying to get someone that can do a DNA test for my bees. Testing for percentage of Africanized bees. NC University does it apparently I think for $50. This after searching on line, emailing and phone calls for about a week. I have not contacted them. Why? Cause I am on the fence about destroying this bee colony. It's a dangerous situation to the community. I weigh my safety and the safety of the surrounding community daily. They seem to be calm currently and surprisingly the day after installing Apivar strips to both bee hives, the bees were back to normal.
What took place leading up to this? I called my favorite state bee inspector. She and I met and it was in a manner that she would not forget. When I called I went through the scenario of why she would remember me perhaps, she infact did. I being a rather self educated beginner took a Spring Bee class that was put on by the Central Texas Bee Association. The lady our bee inspector was giving a quick class on the health and welfare of bees. Different things that they can get like Tracheal Mites, American Foul Brood etc.... She skimmed over veroa mites and that being the #1 concern these years with bee keepers, I had noted that when she asked for questions on Veroa nobody raised any questions. I took it to open a can of worms by asking about sugar shake and count levels. I had seen video's on it by some other state bee inspector. Anyhow, she wanted to move on as time was clicking by, she was trying her best, but it seemed my couple questions turned into a 10 minute question and answer and I was laughing watching her struggle. She is young 25 or so and watching her reaction it was funny at the time.
So onward....... We had a 30 min conversation and she had recommended to do a mite count. Something I had not done. Since my bee hive #2 is aggressive, no way am I going to open it up to see if I need to treat by catching a cup of bees, putting them in a jar and shaking them in powdered sugar and doing a mite count. I was recommended that if I need to treat to use Apivar it's a 99% kill rate on the hive for Veroa Mites. 42 days you pull the strips out.
I order Apivar from Mann Lake $45 with shipping I think is what it was . 10 strips and what you do is place 2 stips in the brood chamber. Making sure it's placed where the bees will be. They crawl on it and get the chemical on them. Verroa mites drop dead. I have to empty out the West Beetle trap anyhow. So instead of doing that on Monday I waited for the Apivar to arrive in the mail.
Knowing my bee hive #2 is aggressive I get on my Denim long sleeve shirt, bib Overalls (Dickies Brand) and bee suit. Go light my smoker and smoke the bees, undo the straps, Come back over and get all my tools and stuff. Bring it over to the bee hive. Pop the top on Bee Hive 1 the non aggressive bees. Remove the honey super and place the Apivar strips into the Brood chamber. Put the Honey Box medium on and I am done. Strap it down.
Bee Hive #2 I lift the top and get a face full of bees. I take the honey box off (SUPER) and get a face full of angry bees. I at this time can not hear anything other then a loud buzz. Take the brood box off and expose the west beetle trap. Take that off the bottom board and clean it out. Put it back on. Put the Bee Hive back together. I am rushing and after everything was put back I realized that the beetle trap was crooked. Left side was down and right side was up. Not going to mess with it. It is what it is. I walked about a block away and the bees were still after me. Walked back down the street 1/2 block past my house and about 5 bees hanging out. Made a run for the door and got in the house without bees. Took off my bee suit and tossed it outside on the porch. Looked at the gloves and it's got quite a lot of stingers in it.
So, I have called the fire dept to find out what to do if I need to burn the bee hive. Were in a burn ban. They stated that if I have to then do it, but let them know by calling them. I called a guy the next day asking what to do about it and if he had any solutions. Can't requeen this late in the year. No drones available and I have not seen a drone in any of my 2 bee hives. Good thing is that in my researching DNA Testing of Africanized Bees I did find a company out in California that has artificial inseminated queens that prove to be veroa mite resistant strain through DNA breeding. I will be requeening next year with them. Expensive Yes! Worth it? It's about $75 with shipping on 2 queens.
A local bee keeper told me that they could just be aggressive. I wouldn't mind him coming out and taking a look, but unfortunately he's pretty far away.
Anyhow......... My wife suites up and goes in my shop steaming mad about the bees. A gallon of dish soap in 1 hand and screams furiously that she's done! She's had it! Well being mad doesn't help the situation and you can't exactly just go out and do something half caulked cause you'll just end up with a different mess. Anyhow....... The bees days are numbered. Either we get some cooler weather and they calm the FUCK DOWN! or they're going to burn. I refuse to deal with "HOT" bees.
Photos: Bee Hive = Build a better beetle trap
2 Very common things that are causes that I know of in the bee hive. 1 is Verroa Mites. Basically it's a flea to the bees. The other is Hive Beetles. Hive beetles can eat comb, honey and wax and deficate creating rotting comb that turns to slime.
From reading my other past blogs I lost the owl house bunch to hive beetles. It unfortunately presence was detected in 1 of the other 2 bee hives. I have a screened bottom board on 1 bee hive. Never seen hive beetles in the screened bee hive that I call #1.
I dealt with it the easy way thinking to just buy a beetle trap that goes in the bottom board. So I did and well......... It fell way short of what it needed to be. I had to modify my bottom board to accommodate the beetle trap. I paid something like $47 for both of them with shipping. I was going out of town up to Dallas, so the easiest thing was to order it and have it arrive since I didn't really have the time to make it. Nor did I want to spend most of the day making one. It was a BIG FAIL what I got in the mail. Spend probably 2 hours modifying it to make it work the way it was suppose to. Cutting and measuring and figuring out an angle, glueing and you know pretty damn mad about spending money trying to take the easy way out.
Typically I make my own stuff as I have a pretty nice shop that I built and have pretty great equipment. Lucky for me though I ended up spending my holiday today Monday making a Beetle Trap. Took most of the day working off and on. The thing about making anything from scratch is trial and error. Sitting looking at some lumber the gears have to get turning.
Cutting wood I had it pretty much done, but when I cut the channel for the front piece it didn't align up with the sides. The channel is where the tray slides in. It's cut smaller cause I am having a piece of plastic as a landing board. The thickness is 1/4", so I had to notch it. Since the groove is up not down with the side boards you have to move the table saw fence the opposite way. I messed this up twice. Ended up using it anyways and cutting it the other direction and have a FAT groove now instead. Heck it's just a prototype.
My intentions were to build this so I can sell them. Probably not happening. Because it took me way too long. I might build a few and sell them, but it will only be to help anyone else that had the same situation that I am in. Nothing more then ordering something that is suppose to work properly and get it and it's design is crap. I should not have to modify anything to make it fit or work functionally for the purpose intended. I would have ended up with beetles going to the bottom board and not in the beetle trap. 60% coverage when 100% is needed.
Cost of material was $33 for 4ft wide and 10 feet length of 1/8" hardware cloth or metal grid mesh. They didn't have the 3ft available in 1/8". It was only 22 bucks. The lumber was $5 with tax I think. Staples a pack of 5000 1/4" was Oh....... $9 The plastic ABS I could have done it the easy way and just used strips instead of 2 pieces and cutting out the inside. I used ABS and not acrylic as it's just more friendly in bonding. I work with plastic for a living. www.txholeyrocks.com for some of the stuff I do if you want to see.
The main thing is that I wanted a tray to slide into rails, but the rails be snug even if it rains. I have this well thought out and hope that it works.
Currently I am doing a Verroa Mite Treatment with Apivar stips.
Thanks for your watching.
From reading my other past blogs I lost the owl house bunch to hive beetles. It unfortunately presence was detected in 1 of the other 2 bee hives. I have a screened bottom board on 1 bee hive. Never seen hive beetles in the screened bee hive that I call #1.
 |
| BEETLE TRAP WITH THE OIL TRAY FOR THE INSIDE THAT SLIDES OUT |
I dealt with it the easy way thinking to just buy a beetle trap that goes in the bottom board. So I did and well......... It fell way short of what it needed to be. I had to modify my bottom board to accommodate the beetle trap. I paid something like $47 for both of them with shipping. I was going out of town up to Dallas, so the easiest thing was to order it and have it arrive since I didn't really have the time to make it. Nor did I want to spend most of the day making one. It was a BIG FAIL what I got in the mail. Spend probably 2 hours modifying it to make it work the way it was suppose to. Cutting and measuring and figuring out an angle, glueing and you know pretty damn mad about spending money trying to take the easy way out.
 |
| OIL TRAY SLIDES OUT EASILY FRONT OR THE BACK |
Typically I make my own stuff as I have a pretty nice shop that I built and have pretty great equipment. Lucky for me though I ended up spending my holiday today Monday making a Beetle Trap. Took most of the day working off and on. The thing about making anything from scratch is trial and error. Sitting looking at some lumber the gears have to get turning.
 |
| I WILL CUT THIS ACRYLIC PIECE TO FIT I RAN OUT OF SCREWS |
 |
| Add caption |
Cutting wood I had it pretty much done, but when I cut the channel for the front piece it didn't align up with the sides. The channel is where the tray slides in. It's cut smaller cause I am having a piece of plastic as a landing board. The thickness is 1/4", so I had to notch it. Since the groove is up not down with the side boards you have to move the table saw fence the opposite way. I messed this up twice. Ended up using it anyways and cutting it the other direction and have a FAT groove now instead. Heck it's just a prototype.
 |
| RAILS ON THE TRAY |
My intentions were to build this so I can sell them. Probably not happening. Because it took me way too long. I might build a few and sell them, but it will only be to help anyone else that had the same situation that I am in. Nothing more then ordering something that is suppose to work properly and get it and it's design is crap. I should not have to modify anything to make it fit or work functionally for the purpose intended. I would have ended up with beetles going to the bottom board and not in the beetle trap. 60% coverage when 100% is needed.
 |
| ABS PLASTIC TRAY FOR VEGETABLE OIL THAT DROWNS BEETLES |
Cost of material was $33 for 4ft wide and 10 feet length of 1/8" hardware cloth or metal grid mesh. They didn't have the 3ft available in 1/8". It was only 22 bucks. The lumber was $5 with tax I think. Staples a pack of 5000 1/4" was Oh....... $9 The plastic ABS I could have done it the easy way and just used strips instead of 2 pieces and cutting out the inside. I used ABS and not acrylic as it's just more friendly in bonding. I work with plastic for a living. www.txholeyrocks.com for some of the stuff I do if you want to see.
 |
| INSIDE TRACKS AND SUPPORT |
 |
| Landing Board using acrylic. |
Currently I am doing a Verroa Mite Treatment with Apivar stips.
Thanks for your watching.
Thursday, October 8, 2015
Re-queening bee hive #2 with bee hive #1
Sept 28th 2015 I suspect I am going into my bee hive #1 and pulling frames for eggs. This is ridiculous that the bees are so defensive in #2. I got stung on the right side of my eye brow when I was mowing with the lawn tractor.
The bees have just been stirred up and won't settle down. This is the same thing that was happening to the lady I got them from. I am going to see if Texas A/M university Bee program has a way to do testing on the low end for Africanized bees. It wouldn't surprise me if they were 50 percent or more.
This really is a complete change in what I was wanting to do. I was wanting to re-queen with bee hive #2 and get rid of bee hive #1 queen. Anyhow...... I will research some on doing this. I don't think I will kill the queen in bee hive #2, but release her with some bees in the treeline in my neighbors back yard. I suspect I can do that if I transfer her to a Nuc Box when I re-queen beehive #2
Mean Bees SUCK!
The bees have just been stirred up and won't settle down. This is the same thing that was happening to the lady I got them from. I am going to see if Texas A/M university Bee program has a way to do testing on the low end for Africanized bees. It wouldn't surprise me if they were 50 percent or more.
This really is a complete change in what I was wanting to do. I was wanting to re-queen with bee hive #2 and get rid of bee hive #1 queen. Anyhow...... I will research some on doing this. I don't think I will kill the queen in bee hive #2, but release her with some bees in the treeline in my neighbors back yard. I suspect I can do that if I transfer her to a Nuc Box when I re-queen beehive #2
Mean Bees SUCK!
Wednesday, October 7, 2015
Video: Angry Bees Africanized DNA Testing
The seasons are changing. Weather is cooling, well at least night time. Were forecasted to have low 90's in a few days. Seems as though Fall doesn't break the summer as easily as I would have hoped. We've been in the mid 80's the past week and mid 90's previous weeks.
Last week I had bee hive #2 highly aggressive. I had placed the beetle trap on a bottom board and placed it on the bee stand. I had to move the bee hive boxes on top and remove the old bottom board. The next major thing; now remember weather,was the sun shade cloth that I had overhead that shaded the 2 bee hives partially through out the day. Since cooler temps I need full sun on the bee hive. No worry about the bee hive getting so hot that honey melts and runs out. This is dangerous as the queen could get caught up in the honey and die.
I had upset the bees enough that they were extremely aggressive. They came after me on the riding lawn tractor. I got stung in the eye socket. "YAR" I am a 1 eyed pirate. I had to stop, get suited up and finish mowing. That's never happened. I have always been able to mow my land and the bee yard with out incident. I had about 100 bees attack me from bee hive 2. That whole day Thursday the bees were head butting me if I was outside East of the bee hive.
The next day the bees again were out and chasing me back into either my shop or house. I even went around the other side of my house and still they followed. Saturday I got outside to get in the car and take my 2 dogs down to town. Kennel inside the car, dogs inside and then the bees came. Son's of Bitches! I didn't get stung, but a bee ended up in the car and was smashed dead at the attempt to get the safety inside the car reasonable with a bee in it. Sunday again in front of my house bees chasing me.
So Monday I was thinking perhaps I have Africanized Bees greater then 50% DNA. I sure like the idea of finding out. It took me until Tuesday PM to finally get a call from UC Davis Entomology Dept who said that NC University Entomology will do the test for a $50 fee. So I am going to call and do that before Friday. Mean Bees Suck! Monday I tried not to go outside as much as possible and then Tuesday I noted that all was basically calm, but wasn't going to test the reaction time of the guard bees. This AM early when I took the video I was in the flight path of Bee Hive #1, so that made me react considering what has taken place since last week.
Next UP is treating for mites. I ordered Apivar. I am going to take 1 frame of honey from bee hive 1 and 1 from #2. I figure they can fill it out before the year gets cold. Can't harvest Honey when Apivar is in the bee hive.
Thanks,
Zak
Last week I had bee hive #2 highly aggressive. I had placed the beetle trap on a bottom board and placed it on the bee stand. I had to move the bee hive boxes on top and remove the old bottom board. The next major thing; now remember weather,was the sun shade cloth that I had overhead that shaded the 2 bee hives partially through out the day. Since cooler temps I need full sun on the bee hive. No worry about the bee hive getting so hot that honey melts and runs out. This is dangerous as the queen could get caught up in the honey and die.
I had upset the bees enough that they were extremely aggressive. They came after me on the riding lawn tractor. I got stung in the eye socket. "YAR" I am a 1 eyed pirate. I had to stop, get suited up and finish mowing. That's never happened. I have always been able to mow my land and the bee yard with out incident. I had about 100 bees attack me from bee hive 2. That whole day Thursday the bees were head butting me if I was outside East of the bee hive.
The next day the bees again were out and chasing me back into either my shop or house. I even went around the other side of my house and still they followed. Saturday I got outside to get in the car and take my 2 dogs down to town. Kennel inside the car, dogs inside and then the bees came. Son's of Bitches! I didn't get stung, but a bee ended up in the car and was smashed dead at the attempt to get the safety inside the car reasonable with a bee in it. Sunday again in front of my house bees chasing me.
So Monday I was thinking perhaps I have Africanized Bees greater then 50% DNA. I sure like the idea of finding out. It took me until Tuesday PM to finally get a call from UC Davis Entomology Dept who said that NC University Entomology will do the test for a $50 fee. So I am going to call and do that before Friday. Mean Bees Suck! Monday I tried not to go outside as much as possible and then Tuesday I noted that all was basically calm, but wasn't going to test the reaction time of the guard bees. This AM early when I took the video I was in the flight path of Bee Hive #1, so that made me react considering what has taken place since last week.
Next UP is treating for mites. I ordered Apivar. I am going to take 1 frame of honey from bee hive 1 and 1 from #2. I figure they can fill it out before the year gets cold. Can't harvest Honey when Apivar is in the bee hive.
Thanks,
Zak
Thursday, October 1, 2015
Bee Hive Update Sept 1st
I wanted to open both hives and do a quick check. I have bee hive 1 and 2. Bee Hive2 is the one that I put the beetle trap in. Bee Hive #2 a Ferrell Hive Rescue in May that I did. They're a "HOT" hive. Doesn't matter what you do they come out atcha if you so much as touch the hive and create vibration. I just wanted to see how the frame I put in 2 weeks ago was doing. They started building comb on the outside edge in 2 places, so I removed the comb. It was only about an inch in diameter for both starting points.
They have honey comb in all the other frames from what I could see or they're starting. Too many bees to really know what is deeper then the top and I am not about to tear into this bee hive as they're temperament is "HOT". Something about this is probably due to small hive beetles. Previously to this the bees were not "HOT"
Thinking back on the way I rescued them they are certainly displaying the same behavior response. I am pretty sure they have a queen that I like. Great numbers of bees and they're healthy from what I can see. Very active hive. They're bringing in Pollen that is a dark orange. I suspect its those really small flowers or possible the shrub scrub brush that is in bloom. What's really amazing is in our area we've only gotten about a 1/4" of rainfall since the end of June. Some of the Buffalo Grass (Native) is going to seed stock and wild flowers are in bloom like these purple flowers.
They have honey comb in all the other frames from what I could see or they're starting. Too many bees to really know what is deeper then the top and I am not about to tear into this bee hive as they're temperament is "HOT". Something about this is probably due to small hive beetles. Previously to this the bees were not "HOT"
Thinking back on the way I rescued them they are certainly displaying the same behavior response. I am pretty sure they have a queen that I like. Great numbers of bees and they're healthy from what I can see. Very active hive. They're bringing in Pollen that is a dark orange. I suspect its those really small flowers or possible the shrub scrub brush that is in bloom. What's really amazing is in our area we've only gotten about a 1/4" of rainfall since the end of June. Some of the Buffalo Grass (Native) is going to seed stock and wild flowers are in bloom like these purple flowers.
With no rainfall and the ground that appears to be bone dry logic would have it that nothing would grow. We do have dew in the AM, so I suspect that these plants germinate with any rainfall then use the dew as water to survive. Mother nature is amazing when you think about this kind of stuff.
BEE HIVE 1
I opened up the bee hive and took the honey box off. Still they refuse to build brood comb. Just an odd thing. The queen in the spring will likely go into a Nuc Box for a 3rd bee hive. I don't like her as she's a bit in my opinion lazy. Why not draw comb in the brood chamber is beyond me. I know it's been summer time, but come on they did draw honey comb on all 9 frames this summer. I was feeding them sugar water and flour in the dearth when everything was baked, so no excuse. Yes, it's drought I know, but previously you'd think that she'd have them draw comb for brood. It took them about 6 weeks just to draw 4 frames of honey in the honey box. This one has medium frames. Bee Hive 2 has Super for honey box. So I put a 10th frame in the honey box as they were bridged from the wall gap to the next frame getting ready to build comb from the wall down. Great timing ehe? I just wished I had better climate then we do.
Closing this bee hive up was easy, the temprament is half that of the other bee hive. Since I don't really take the honey box off and did this time it's a lucky thing I did that cause the queen still is not that good in my thoughts.
In comparison I don't know what to really do. Previously I was dead set on requeening next year with bee hive 2. I probably ought to not requeen with bee hive 2 as they're more "HOT". I don't want neighbors complaining. Oh just a quick note: Being sarcastic: "I sure do look forward to cleaning that hive beetle trap next week". The one that is "HOT"
I'll start treating with sugar dusting when the temps are in the mid 80's. We've been running about 91 to 96 for the past 3 weeks. A few days we did get mid 80's to upper 80s. I thought I could take the sun sail shade off, but it's not cooled down in to the 80's permanently. This week the forcast is mid 80's in a few days and should remain, so if it stays then I can take it off. The sun shade cloth
The way I have it does provide partial shade. Enough that the bees do fan, but they honey doesn't melt. Oh I did open up the entrance reducer on bee hive 1 today. I noted the other PM that they were fanning. They were not bearding though. I put an entrance reducer on because the wind out here is too much in my thoughts. I have a screened bottom board with the plastic sheet in place on the bottom. You might want to understand why I have the bee stand the way it is. It's because I want 4 bee hives eventually. Anyhow........ That's it for now.
Tuesday, September 29, 2015
PHOTO'S BEE HIVE ATTACK! Beetle trap bottom board replacement
This is the second time I have opened up this hive and been attacked by the bees. It's certainly a hot hive. I am okay walking around the hive, but as soon as I go in to it all hell breaks loose. I smoked the bees and walked away. Something about taking the honey box off they didn't like that. I think it's justified with the response I got.
It's been since early August since I have really opened up this bee hive. I have not done anything to this hive other then put a new frame in it a couple weeks ago. Since I don't have anything to really do no reason to go into the bee hive. I found out by looking inside that the bees have made honey comb on the top side of the frames in the brood chamber (Super) and connected it to the Super frames above. I have 2 supers. 1 brood and 1 honey. I suspect it's pretty much honey in the bottom super. They've attached honey comb to the wall and the 1st frame next to it. I don't really care how they keep the house at this point in time. Next Spring I will do a complete frame swap in the bottom to get things organized and on the right path with proper order. The disorganization is only in the brood chamber. The honey super is new frames since I put it on. If your not familiar with the read on the bee hive, this was the hive in May that I rescued. I ended up cleaning up some of the original comb, but it's a mess, Oh well all is okay for now.
This is what happened. I got a bunch of bees in my face when I lifted the first box off the bee hive and onto the stand. This as I said before was because the separation of the burr comb that was on top of the frames. Probably some lifting and dropping of the frames or rattling when this happened and the bees came out at me. The bees temperament previously was fine back in August and now it's a "HOT" hive meaning anything you do with them, they come out at me. This I suspect is because the hive beetles that have gone into the bee hive. Grumpy bees are justified and I understand.
After I got the top box off the bottom box separating the 2, I placed the bottom brood chamber onto the new bottom board
with the beetle trap. I then had to walk a block away because the amount of bees swarming me. Unfortunately I had a delivery truck arrive. He got the pallet off the truck and promptly got inside his truck and drove off. He didn't like the bees flying around me or him. I then went back with the smoker and smoked them. I lifted the brood chamber off the existing bottom board and placed it on the beetle trap bottom board. Placed the honey box on the brood chamber and walked away. I managed to grab the bottom board and place it on the firewood shed roof where the bees can clean up the honey that dripped down on it. About 10 minutes later I returned and strapped the bee hive down securing it. I then proceeded to walk to my shop where I was safe and could get the bees to stay outside while I was inside. About 5 minutes later I was able to go inside to my house. No bee stings.
Wooden shim I had to make for the beetle trap.
I had to modify the bottom board to fit the West beetle trap. I had to cut a 1" piece of wood that was 3/4" wide. I had to notch that piece so the tray would slide into the wood shim. Under that grate is vegetable oil. Just enough to coat the bottom about 3/16" probably or 1/8" Enough for the beetles to drown in and die. On that grate I cut a 45 degree angle on the front of it cause it had a lip on it. This is what I was talking about in the blog I wrote yesterday. Poorly made. I shouldn't have to cut and sand the front grate to make a smooth transition. I have watched video's where the hive beetles like to follow tracks or grooves. Why would they not recess this as they did the 3 sides is dumb.If you have to clean it out you have to pull the whole tray out, so what's with the tray not being recessed is just laziness. On the shim piece of wood on the left I wanted to round that piece so they wouldn't hang out on that gap. I want them to go into the grated part. I cut a small piece of wood and sanded it with an electric sander so it's got a curve.
Hope for the best is what I am doing. I suspect they'll make it through this beetle problem. Bee Hive#1 I will see how they are doing and if I need a beetle trap for them. They have a screened bottom board with out an oil tray.
 |
| Bee Hive on the Right is that one that I worked on |
It's been since early August since I have really opened up this bee hive. I have not done anything to this hive other then put a new frame in it a couple weeks ago. Since I don't have anything to really do no reason to go into the bee hive. I found out by looking inside that the bees have made honey comb on the top side of the frames in the brood chamber (Super) and connected it to the Super frames above. I have 2 supers. 1 brood and 1 honey. I suspect it's pretty much honey in the bottom super. They've attached honey comb to the wall and the 1st frame next to it. I don't really care how they keep the house at this point in time. Next Spring I will do a complete frame swap in the bottom to get things organized and on the right path with proper order. The disorganization is only in the brood chamber. The honey super is new frames since I put it on. If your not familiar with the read on the bee hive, this was the hive in May that I rescued. I ended up cleaning up some of the original comb, but it's a mess, Oh well all is okay for now.
 |
| This is some burr or trash comb I removed. |
This is what happened. I got a bunch of bees in my face when I lifted the first box off the bee hive and onto the stand. This as I said before was because the separation of the burr comb that was on top of the frames. Probably some lifting and dropping of the frames or rattling when this happened and the bees came out at me. The bees temperament previously was fine back in August and now it's a "HOT" hive meaning anything you do with them, they come out at me. This I suspect is because the hive beetles that have gone into the bee hive. Grumpy bees are justified and I understand.
After I got the top box off the bottom box separating the 2, I placed the bottom brood chamber onto the new bottom board
 | ||
| West Beetle Trap with modifications |
 | |||
| Hive Tool used to scrape the burr comb and loosen the bee super(Boxes) apart from each other for removal and transfer |
 | ||
| Beetle trap grate modification Before (Upper photo) |
 |
| 45 degree angle cut on the lip of the grate (AFTER MODIFICATION) |
I had to modify the bottom board to fit the West beetle trap. I had to cut a 1" piece of wood that was 3/4" wide. I had to notch that piece so the tray would slide into the wood shim. Under that grate is vegetable oil. Just enough to coat the bottom about 3/16" probably or 1/8" Enough for the beetles to drown in and die. On that grate I cut a 45 degree angle on the front of it cause it had a lip on it. This is what I was talking about in the blog I wrote yesterday. Poorly made. I shouldn't have to cut and sand the front grate to make a smooth transition. I have watched video's where the hive beetles like to follow tracks or grooves. Why would they not recess this as they did the 3 sides is dumb.If you have to clean it out you have to pull the whole tray out, so what's with the tray not being recessed is just laziness. On the shim piece of wood on the left I wanted to round that piece so they wouldn't hang out on that gap. I want them to go into the grated part. I cut a small piece of wood and sanded it with an electric sander so it's got a curve.
Hope for the best is what I am doing. I suspect they'll make it through this beetle problem. Bee Hive#1 I will see how they are doing and if I need a beetle trap for them. They have a screened bottom board with out an oil tray.
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