Preperation for Owl House Bees to be moved to Nuc Box
Final preparation began today. When you remove comb from a Ferrell bee hive, you need to put it in a foundationless frame. Since comb is 2 sided, the use of a foundation frame can't be done.
The frames need .152" holes drilled in them.
3 holes will be sufficient for the comb to be secured.
This allows the skewer
to go through the top of the frame through the comb and into a 1/8" depth hole drilled to the bottom of the frame. This is just a divot the end ot the skewer will sit. It doesn't need to be drilled all the way through. I have read about this method of securing comb into a frame. Another method is using rubber bands stretched over the frames. I will not ever use rubber band method for a removal to secure comb to the frame. I was told by nearly all bee removal companies that using rubber bands to secure cut comb is what to do.
Why I don't use the rubber band method this time or any other time? Rubber bands are basically great for straitening out comb on foundationless frames when bees are drawing out comb. My experience is that the bees tend to chew the rubber bands off prior to adhering it to the frame making it secure. This causes the comb to fall over onto the next frame and of coarse bees then connect it together. You can then see how much a Ferrell bee hive transfer of frames ends up being a huge mess. Go grab a frame and you have 3 that are stuck together unfortunately. I eventually ended up with a bigger mess then I started with. In a 10 frame langstroth bee hive. It took me nearly 6 weeks to get rid of the comb and straighten out or organize the comb. Most of it eventually got trashed. When your dealing with bees that are queenless and Ferrell this can be a rather unpleasant situation. The bees being at a heightened temperament and no ability to make comb. Wax comes from nurse bees or young bees under 14 to 16 days old.
Using the skewer method you can see why it is I won't use the rubber band method. Luckily I have a queen in this Owl House Bunch. Hopefully she will live. I will be extra careful when removing the bees over. I will try to find her when doing the removal to be extra careful on that comb when doing the skewers.
The plan is on Tuesday PM or AM I have not decided, Use my bee hive tool and pry the wood apart. It is held together with finishing nails. An air gun was used to shoot finishing nails into the plywood, so unfortunately this is going to be more trama on the bees. You typically don't want to be pounding on a bee hive. If you do think it's okay to pound on a bee hive, you must not have all all your nuts and bolts in your head. The advantage of the AM time frame is that I have light to work with and it's cool temps. Drawback is you have upset bees all day long. In the PM the bees are more settled and won't fly as much. Just a theory. After I get them transferred the bees at night will have a tendency to just go in and not fly around and stay put. Again just a theory.
I will close the front of the bee hive heart shaped hole off to prevent free flight of the bees immediately. Start wedging the hive tool in the front piece of plywood and hopefully get it pryed open enough I can pry the front off. I then will be able assess the situation.
Some branches are in the bottom of the box that are part of the comb will need to be trimmed away. Comb will have Larvae, honey and probably trash comb. Trash comb is comb that isn't really used by the bees. This being such a small hive I hope to save as much as possible. Being the back side of summer and near fall I will give them as much honey comb as I can. Normally when working a removal honey comb isn't saved and put in with the bees because it's a mess. Your typically wanting just the brood comb.
I will probably not have the opportunity to take much video or photo's during all the removal and introduction to the Nuc box.
I will dress for battle. I suspect the other 2 bee hives will not get worked up, but will plan for the worst. 2 layers of socks, winter boots, Sweat pants, short sleeve and long sleeve shirts, Dickies overalls, bee suit and of coarse gloves.
On a scale of 1 being easy and 10 being the most dangerous I would peg this as a level 4 because it's not got many bees and the bee temperament has been very calm. They're more gentle then the 2 bee hives I have currently. My first Ferrell bee hive removal I did was a 10. I was on my back with 24" to work with above me to remove comb and I had probably 50,000 bees that were not happy. I had a safe zone on that removal that was about 1/3rd of a mile away.
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